Science vs. feel

I've been thinking a lot about this over the last year. There are some shapers who stick with scientific theories on hydrodynamics and some that stick with strictly feel and whatever little theories on surfboard building they have picked up on over the years. I've had great boards from both but I constantly wonder which of these two theories will produce better surfboards over time.

The science is proven, at least in how it applies to lift, planing etc..But the right feel can be different for any one person, but when it's on science used to make the board or not, it just makes you surf better. I am on a constant quest for a relationship with a shaper that can have the best of both worlds. Even if my shaper is a good surfer what are the chances he surfs with the same approach I do. It really depends on finding a shaper that listens to you. Thats hard. It also depends on you caring enough to learn about each board you ride and give good feedback to your shaper that is accurate and useful.

I've decided that with how many boards I buy a year Im wasting a lot of money and my surfing isnt getting much better. (Thats probably nothing to do with boards). I randomly select boards from various shapers that will give me a different feel to keep me motivated in my surfing and having fun. It's what keeps me syked on those crappy days, but it's not making me find my "homerun" board. I beleive that Im at least good enough to refine what I already know I like and little by little make it better suited for myself.

So my experiment begins. I'm choosing Stretch to be my shaper. I have a lot of shapers I love. Roberts, Merrick, Bill Johnson, etc. But Stretch listens to me...I may have to argue a bit but ultimitly he believes in me and I in him. He no longer surfs but his science and craftsmanship, plus close proxemity and quick turn around make him an easy choice for me. I'm going to order one board a month and surf nothing else but that board each month. Or at least Im going to try. This blog will be my accountability for this experiment.

I'm starting with a board that will be done next week. a 6'0 x 19 3/8 x 2.5 skate model. I will post pics and reviews of each board and what I'm learning. Im hoping that after a year of this my surfing will have improved...even if only a little and that I will end up with a custom daily driver that I trust in almost any condition SC can throw at me.

I will use the same set of fins on every board to ensure that that varible is gone. I believe my very favorite fin template is most conditions is the future am2.

Let the games begin pics of the new one coming next week.