All of my friends hear me say this all the time. It's pretty nerdy but fun to think about. When I really start drifting off and thinking about all those boards, it triggers memories of certain waves, sessions, days and so on and so forth. It will make you realize how blessed we are to have had many of the experiences we've had. It will also teach you a lot about what you actually like in a surfboard. For me all mine have very similar values, and I only just recently realized that. My bet is that if you can narrow down and remember specifics of your top five you could get on track to learning exactly what you like in a board and start surfing at least a little better than going with the latest marketing trend or what Kelly is riding (even though sometimes it's insane and I'm probably more guilty of that than anybody). OK so here's my list in order. Please feel free to share yours.
1. 6'4"x 19" x 2.5" Froggystyle single wing swallow tail orange rails yellow top and bottom. OH boy, some good memories here for me. This was the board I had when I was 19 and first moved to Santa Cruz. I wanted a local board from someone I could trust and my friend Trevor had given me a list of guys to call. I literally went down that list and called everyone, and no one answered but I left messages for everybody. Frogger was the first to call me back and we've been good friends ever since. That board was so perfect for me at the time. I remember trying to do airs at hook lefts and 26h Ave. I remember a great session at jalama on it and I remember when it finally broke at MBA. I probably had that board longer than any other board I'd ever owned and it was the only board I had at the time. I didnt know what a quiver was.
2. 6'0"x 18 3/4"x 2.35" Original Stretch fletcher four fin bat tail EPS. First epoxy board ever for me. This thing was way to small for me, in fact I think it was meant to be Skindogs board, another long story. But this thing loosened me up like there was no tomorrow. I remember feeling like I was going faster than ever and doing more turns on any given wave than I ever had up to that point. My friends were all saying that it looked good which is always an ego boost, lol. But most of all I had so much fun on it. It was when I had just quit Apple and I had a month off before I started adobe in 04 i think?
3. 6'3" x 18 3/4"x 2.5" Channel Islands M4 roundtail. This board actually was suppossed to be a 6'4" I think because the nose looked like it had been chopped off and rounded. Super ugly but man that thing was good. It was actually the board I had right after the fletcher 4 mentioned above. It surfed very similar but was a round tail thruster and was better dims for me. I remember my first session on it was at Carmel and it was so loose and fast down the line and the wide roundtail and single concave gave me so much control and really was the first board that I felt like I could do what I envisioned doing on a wave.
4. 6'2"x 18 5/8"x 2.5" Pearson Arrow squash tail thruster copied from another froggystyle of the same dims. Actually I would like to lump these two boards into one. They were really close to being the same. I rode the froggystyle for over a year and eventually broke. But before it did I took it to Bob and he went over the whole thing and copied it exactly...except Bob put a flat bottom on it. No concave. I remeber him telling me that he thought conve was over rated and that everyone was just copying Merrick. I actually dropped a ladder on that board before I even rode it, lol. I had to have it reparied and I didnt even ride until like 3 months after it was shaped. But my first session was at bora on it and it was so good. It's the board I had and was riding when I first met my wife. I had spray painted a black fade on the botttom with a cross stenciled between the fins. I still was skating a bit at the time and was very influenced by Jamie Thomas and his skateboard art. It eventually broke surfing sand dollar on a good day, probably in 03.
5. 6'2"x 18 5/8"x 2.35" POIDOG roundtail thruster. POI made me 3 boards before a trip to Samoa. This was one of them that I didnt bring because it felt to small for me as I was packing before my trip. Big mistake. I came home, waxed that thing up and surfed oceanside on a medium sized day and that thing went nuts! I couldnt believe that board that small was working for me as well as it was especially in those conditions. I got my best waves in 4 years living in SD by far riding that thing. Went to mex a few times with it, got some mental barrels over the summer of 07 at oceanside, and had a really fun session on it at jalama and got all kinds a tubes. The thing I remember most about that board was that it worked good in anything, small or large. I ended up getting a dozen or soo of those before POI split for tahiti.
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